River Crossings in Iceland: How to Cross Safely on the Trail

Fimmvörðuháls: few river crossings

The standard route from Skógar to Þórsmörk follows the Skógá river upstream on its bank, crosses it on a footbridge, then climbs onto the high pass between Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull. You may meet small streams and snowmelt rivulets, but there are no significant unbridged rivers on the main trail. The real hazards on Fimmvörðuháls are weather, fog on the plateau, snow patches and the exposed descent towards Þórsmörk. If you continue beyond Þórsmörk to the road or bus pick-ups, check how your transport handles the river fords on the access road.

Laugavegur: the crossings to expect

Most major glacial rivers on the Laugavegur are bridged, but there are a few fords. The best-known is Bláfjallakvísl, between Álftavatn and Emstrur, a wide glacial river that is usually knee-deep or less in summer. There are smaller streams in the Álftavatn area, and Þröngá on the final day as you approach Þórsmörk. Depths and flow change with weather, snowmelt and time of day. Ask the hut wardens about current conditions each morning; they know the rivers well.

Why Icelandic rivers demand respect

Glacial rivers are extremely cold, fast and opaque with silt, so you cannot see the bottom or judge depth by eye. Their beds can be loose stones that shift underfoot, and channels braid and move between seasons. Cold water saps strength quickly and shocks the body. Glacial rivers usually rise during the day as the sun melts ice, often peaking in the afternoon or evening, and they rise sharply after heavy rain. The same crossing can be easy in the morning and dangerous later.

How to cross a river safely

Follow this technique on every unbridged crossing: The aim is to stay balanced, keep your boots and spare clothing dry, and be able to free yourself from your pack instantly if you lose your footing. Practise the stance on a small stream first so it feels natural when you reach a wider, colder and faster glacial river on the trail itself.

• Change into water shoes or sandals with a heel strap; never cross barefoot.
• Unbuckle your hip belt and loosen shoulder straps so you can shed the pack if you fall.
• Pick the widest, shallowest section, where the water is usually slower and braided.
• Face upstream and move sideways, using trekking poles for a stable three-point stance.
• Shuffle your feet; keep one foot planted before moving the other.
• Cross in pairs or a small group, linked by arms or a shared pole if needed.
• Keep spare dry clothes in a dry bag so you can warm up on the far side.

Timing and conditions

Cross early in the day whenever you can, before afternoon melt raises water levels. After heavy rain or a warm, sunny spell, expect higher flow. Ask wardens or other hikers coming the other way, and look for marker poles that show the usual crossing point. Never wade glacial rivers in high flow. If the water is above your knees, very fast, or you can hear boulders rolling along the bed, wait. Levels often drop overnight, and waiting a few hours or until the next morning is a normal part of trekking in Iceland.

When to turn back

No itinerary is worth risking a crossing you are unsure about. Turn back or wait if the water is too deep or fast, if you cannot see a safe exit on the other side, or if anyone in your group is not confident. Cold, tired hikers are more likely to slip. If someone does fall in, they should drop the pack, roll onto their back with feet downstream and work towards the bank. Warm them immediately with dry clothes and shelter, and call 112 if needed.

River crossings when driving

Several highland roads, including the route to Þórsmörk, involve river fords that are far more dangerous for vehicles than for hikers. Cars have been swept away. Rental insurance typically excludes river damage. Unless you have experience and a suitable high-clearance 4x4, use the highland buses or a super jeep tour instead. Never follow another vehicle across a river without checking depth yourself.