Mount Esja: Þverfellshorn

The Mount Esja hike is Reykjavík's favourite workout and the quickest way to get a real mountain view near the capital of Iceland. Esja rises directly across the bay from the city, and the trail to Þverfellshorn, the most popular viewpoint on its edge, climbs about 700 m in roughly 3.5 km. From the top you look over the whole capital area, Faxaflói bay, the Reykjanes peninsula and, on clear days, the Snæfellsjökull glacier.

The round trip is about 7 km and takes three to four hours. The trail starts at the Esjustofa car park at Mógilsá, about 20 minutes' drive from central Reykjavík, and is graded with signposts marking difficulty levels as you go. Many locals walk only to Steinn, a large boulder where the trail steepens, which makes a good turnaround point.

The final section above Steinn is steep and rocky, with a short scramble aided by chains to reach the plateau edge at Þverfellshorn. It is very doable for fit hikers in summer but requires care. In winter Esja becomes a different mountain, often snowy and icy, and should be treated with respect. Whatever the season, take a warm layer: the wind on the upper mountain is often far stronger than in the city, and cloud can roll in from the bay surprisingly quickly.

Highlights

• Panoramic views over Reykjavík and Faxaflói bay
• A real mountain hike just 20 minutes from the city
• Steinn boulder, the classic turnaround point
• The chain-assisted scramble to Þverfellshorn

The route

Getting to the trailhead

The trailhead is at Esjustofa, by Mógilsá on Route 1 north of Reykjavík, about 20 minutes' drive from the city centre. There is a large free car park. Strætó buses heading north towards Akranes can drop you near the trailhead; check current routes and timetables before relying on them.

Where to stay

Reykjavík has accommodation of every kind, from campsites and hostels to hotels, all within a short drive. The Esjustofa café at the trailhead is the only facility on the mountain. There is no camping on the trail.

Best time to hike

Esja can be hiked year-round, but summer is easiest, with snow-free trails and long daylight. In winter the trail is often snowy and icy and avalanches can occur on the upper slopes; microspikes or crampons and winter experience are needed for the upper section. Weekday mornings and summer evenings are quietest.

Safety

The upper section above Steinn is steep and loose, and the chain-assisted scramble requires care, especially when wet or icy. In winter, people have needed rescue on Esja after slips and avalanches; check avalanche forecasts on vedur.is and turn back at Steinn if conditions are poor. Wind can be strong on the exposed upper mountain. Call 112 in an emergency.